Battery Box problems and fixes

I decided to do some cleanup in and around the battery box of the 1800 last week. The PO had someone [he never did any work himself] do work that included putting 2 cut sections of asphalt roofing shingles on the bottom and back of the battery box. On top of that were 2 1/4" pieces of plywood painted black with a FLAPS battery tray that had been cut and hacked to accommodate the windshield washer reservoir and pump.

It was a mess so I started removing everything, this is when I discovered the reason for it. 2 holes about the size of half dollars in the middle of the area under the battery into the passenger compartment. First off I had to scrape the asphalt shingles off and remove all the goo that they left behind. Then I got the wire cup brush mounted in a drill and had at the areas that showed any rust, the rest of the box was solid, all the angles and seams were tight and rust free. The next step was to paint everything with a rust preventative paint, to stop further rusting.

After that dried I applied a layer of FatMat sound/heat insulation to the bottom and back surface in a single piece to seal the entire area from the engine compartment. This stuff sticks like crazy to anything it touches and then all you need to do is apply roller pressure to bond it to the surfaces. After that I added a custom bent 304 stainless steel sheet to the back and bottom to give the battery somewhere to sit that would never rust again. Everything was secured with aluminum rivets with SS washers under the rivet heads.





I also purchased a battery mat product from IPD that was about $5 and cut that to fit. The original battery hold down system will be used rather than the over the top setup with J hooks that the after market FLAPS tray used. More clearance above as well so no more rubbing of the cutoff switch knob on the inside of the hood. The old buildup of shingle, plywood, and battery tray added at least 1/2" to the battery height.



I like the look and it will be much better than the crap that was in their before. It is amazing what some people will do to butcher their cars.

finished product minus the original equipment hold down which is being painted.

A while back I decided to swap the distributor in the 71E so I got out my spare and installed a hotspark.com module in it, swapped the cap and rotor for new Bosch and installed in the car. That is the quick synopsis, below are the steps to make it happen. A few notes about the distributors I used, the original is a Bosch part # 0 231 163 021 from the high compression b20E engine. I replaced it with a 0 231 163 033 from a newer B20F engine.

The first step is to get the engine to TDC before removing the distributor, to do this:

1:Remove the ground lead from the battery, and the forward most spark plug and wire.

2:Remove the oil fill cap and rotate the engine clockwise [facing front of car] until the rotor points at the #1 plug wire. [remove cap to view]

3:Then check the timing marks to see if you are lined up with 0 degrees, if you are check the two forward valves are both up, if they are not rotate around one more revolution.

4:Now shine a bright light in the spark plug hole and you should see the top of the piston.

5:You can now loosen the collar nut at the base of the distributor as if you were adjusting the timing, do not take the 2 bolts lower down that hold the collar to the block.

6:Disconnect the FI plug from the side of the distributor and pull straight up.

OK now you have the distributor in your hand, move to a workbench and take the points and condenser out.

WARNING: Here is the lesson part, your first thought after removing the condenser is to screw the small cheese head screw back into the distributor body, DON'T! Without the metal tab that the condenser rides on extra thickness the screw will penetrate into the distributor body and the spinning internal parts will come in contact with it. Since you don't want to leave an open hole in the body add 3 #6 washers in a stack under the screw to shim it out. [ask me how I know :-( ]

You can try it for yourself by putting the screw in without the washers and trying to turn the rotor by hand, it will not make a full revolution before stopping unless you shim it out. You could also cut the screw, but if you ever decide to go back to points it will now be too short for the job.

Install your Petronix or hotspark kit as described in the book of words that come with the kit, the hardest part is getting the grommet to fit in the hole that the condenser wire went through before. I used a bit of dish soap to lube things along, just a bit.

Once it is all together you need to reinstall the distributor body in the holder, take a minute to oil the wick and the oil fill cap on the side of the body first.

Point the rotor at the general location of plug #1 and check to see that gear or key on the bottom of the distributor is roughly lined up with what you see in the engine.

Drop it in and wiggle the rotor until it drops in place to the shoulder of the distributor body.

Slightly tighten the locking nut so the body still turns and rotate the vacuum retard unit towards the block.

Put the #1 plug in the plug wire and reattach the cap to the distributor, do not install the plug in the engine just yet.

Reattach the ground wire to the battery and turn the ignition on but do not try to start the car.

Note: this next step needs to be done in less than 2 or 3 minutes as both the petronix and the hotspark do not like to be left with the ignition on and the engine not running due to overheating and possible damage of the unit.

With your left hand hold the plug with attached spark plug wire against the block and using your right hand slowly [very slowly] turn the distributor clockwise until a spark jumps at the plug. you are not set at 0 degrees for the timing, should be close enough for you to start the car and time with your light next.

Stop and tighten the collar clamping nut, turn off the ignition.

Now reinstall the spark plug and wire and get all your tools out of the way.

Attach your timing light and time as you normally would, for me this is 10 degrees BTDC, this is the 10 degrees between 0 and 20 not the 10 degrees all by itself. [big difference, well 20 degrees anyway]

Car should start and you can enjoy never having to set points again.

Good Luck!
ayb

First post

First post to this blog.

excitement abounds.

thanks for looking
updated using drivel

ayb